Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast

In this brief episode, I invite you to join my "Send 2025" New Year's Challenge! JOIN the SEND 2025 CHALLENGE by filling out this brief Google Form >> I designed this free 6-week challenge to help motivate and inspire a fresh, focused, and optimistic start to the new year...and hopefully help you set off on your best year ever! The challenge is action-oriented -- so we'll ask you to set some achievable short-term goals to reach for during the 6-weeks of the challenge. These action items can relate to your training and nutrition goals for the new year, but also target bad habits you’d like to change…or other behaviors that are holding you back from reaching the next level in climbing, in your career or relationships, or any other important life area. To serve as your North Star for this challenge, we will ask you to select a specific "Challenge Goal" for the 6 weeks of the contest, as well as set a "Send 2025 Mega Goal" that you'll be working towards throughout the year ahead. We hope that with our encouragement and support you will reach all your goals big or small! ************************************* JOIN the SEND 2025 CHALLENGE by filling out this brief Google Form >> ************************************* SUPPORT THE TRAINING FOR CLIMBING PODCAST! Visit our sponsor PhysiVantage Nutrition at PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: SEND15. European climbers can get PhysiVantage from the EPIC-TV shop and BananaFingers.com SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >> Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Copyright © 2000–2024 Eric J. Hörst | All Rights Reserved.

The title of this podcast may have you thinking "WTF?" Well, this is a special episode of the T4C podcast...and I think you're going to really enjoy it! THE Alex Megos has recently launched his own podcast, and during his recent visit to the States he asked me to sit down for a conversation about the history of training, personalized program design, nutrition and recovery, and much much more.  Of course, I was excited for this unique opportunity...and we had a very lively hour and ten minute conversation that I think every stoked climber will enjoy! There's lots of talk of training and nutritional nuance...and numerous wide-ranging clues for elevating your performance. Listen in! Here's a rundown of some key moments: 0:30 - Eric's intro to this collaboration with the new Alex Megos podcast on Spotify and YouTube Channel. 2:40 - To begin, Alex asks about my backstory as a climber...and my interest in training for climbing. 5:30 - Some interesting training history. 9:00 - Beginning of climbing performance research. 10:10 - The importance of a personalized approach to climbing and performance. 10:40 - The role of genetics and natural talent. 12:40 - The value of having a veteran coach. 17:00 - A "get the basics right" approach to training. 20:00 - Mental aspects of climbing hard...and the complexities of our sport. 23:05 - It's NOT always about the grades! 24:00 - A bit about Eric's twin careers... 29:00 - Diet and nutritional mistakes. 32:00 - Importance of protein for hard-training athletes. 33:45 - Vitamin D deficiency is not uncommon...and potentially impactful on health and performance. 36:00 - A primer on the research and optimal use of hydrolyzed collagen. Also, the backstory on Supercharged Collagen. 40:00 - Potential benefits of beetroot supplements, such as PhysiVantage Sendure X. 44:00 - The best supplement for climbers? 45:00 - Alex and Eric discuss the benefits (and potential draw backs) of Creatine Monohydrate supplementation. 51:00 - Personalized nutrition 52:30 - Becoming an effective self-coach. 54:50 - The power of Discipline. 58:00 - Finding the right level of commitment for reaching your goals. 58:50 - How near is 5.16a/9c+? 59:50 - A few questions from listeners... 1:02:30 - Pros/cons of being on a ketogenic diet for athletes? 1:05:40 - Are all carbohydrates basically the same? 1:06:50 - Using a continuous glucose monitor (CGM) 1:08:45 - Nutrient timing. 1:12:00 - Alex's closing comments 1:13:00 - Links to the new Alex Megos podcast on Spotify and Alex & Chris Hanke's awesome YouTube Channel! 1:14:00 - Eric's final comments  SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: SEND15. European climbers can get PhysiVantage from the EPIC-TV shop and BananaFingers.com SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >> Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Copyright © 2000–2024 Eric J. Hörst | All Rights Reserved.

In this episode, coach Hörst shares 13 little things that can make a BIG difference when it comes to sending your near limit—or, perhaps, beyond limit!—project boulder or route. Quite often it's the tiniest of things that can make or break your ascent. Eric covers a lot of territories including the power of proper breathing, the best time of the day to send, the effects of food and drink on energy and focus, how to get the perfect warm-up, how long to rest between attempts, how to win the skin game, the importance of the shoes you wear, how your thinking can make or break a send go, and so much more. RUNDOWN 3:40 - 13 Little Things That Make a BIG Difference When Limit Climbing 4:15 - 1. The first “little, big thing” is to breathe more intentionally. Learn how to do it...to save energy, accelerate recovery, and help maintain focus and confidence. 10:30 - 2. Climb during the optimal time of the day. Learn how to plan your send goes for your strongest (and the stickiest) time of day. 14:17 - 3. Eat & drink appropriately. Learn how much you should drink and eat for a short session--or a full day--at the boulders or crags. 20:00 - 4. Empty bladder and bowels beforehand. Learn how to deal with golf ball bladder...and lighten the load before your send go. Click here for information about the benefits of MAG-ATP supplement from PhysiVantage. 26:30 - 5. Get a perfect warm-up! Learn the 7 steps of doing a perfect pre-send warm-up. Also, listen to Podcast #67 for a comprehensive discussion of the physiology of getting properly warmed up for hard climbing. SPONSOR MESSAGE: Less pump, more endurance -- Sendure X! Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15. European climbers can get PhysiVantage from the EPIC-TV shop and BananaFingers.com 32:13 - 6. Don’t Take Any Wasted Any Goes! AKA make every go count! Don't start up the climb with any uncertainty in beta. If needed, take a practice go (with hangs) to sure-up your beta. 39:43 - 7. If needed, take a practice go (with hangs) to sure up your beta. 41:41 - 8. Rest appropriately between goes. How minutes (or hours) should you rest between boulder problem and sport climb attempts? 45:03 - 9. Rest optimally on the route. Climb fast and rest well! Know how to use optimally whatever rests the boulder or route offers you! 46:13 - 10. Win the skin game! Learn how to make your skin last longer... 51:03 - 11.  Brush the most critical holds! This is critical for increasing friction on small, slopey holds. Brush liberally. 52:28 - 12. Make sure you’re wearing the right shoes for the boulder or route at hand. If you're not packing in two different pairs of shoes, you should consider it! 55:13 - 13. Believe in a positive outcome, but let go of the need to succeed. Accept that the send will happen when it's meant to happen. Enjoy climbing the piece of rock in front of you...and take it one move at a time. 58:43 - Bonus Tip: Have a great belayer you can trust…AND a stoked and supportive ground crew that knows when to yell encouragements at you…and when to shut up and let you take care of business. 1:00:38 - Do YOU have a favor send tip? Share your "little, big" send tip to Eric and perhaps he'll feature it on a future podcast. You can leave your tip on Eric's Twitter @Train4Climbing or on the Training for Climbing Instagram @Training4Climbing or T4C Facebook page. PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend! SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15. European climbers can get PhysiVantage from the EPIC-TV shop and BananaFingers.com SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >> Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Copyright © 2000–2024 Eric J. Hörst | All Rights Reserved.

One of the ironies of climbing performance outcomes is that as hard as you've physically trained in preparation, the outcome often hinges on the quality of your mental game. The power point, here, is that when it comes down to the final days and hours leading up to an important climb, the keys to performing your best are largely mental! While many athletes "shoot themselves in the foot” in any number of ways in the days or hours leading up to competition — or even during the sports event itself! — a well-coached and mentally apt and experienced individual will act in deliberate ways to set the stage for peak performance. Towards this end, I'm going to detail 8 so called "last-minute" things you can do (or not do) that will help set the stage for climbing your best when it counts most. The more of these items that you deliberately optimize, the better you’ll sort of stack the deck for performing your best when it counts. Support the TFC podcast...and amplify your training and performance with PhysiVantage Nutrition! This month (Rock-tober) only, get 20% off full-priced nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST20 (North America only). In Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage! Links to more Training For Climbing! The Power of Pre-Climb Rituals >> 10 Does and Don'ts of Effective Redpointing >> How To Develop Stronger Fingers and Tendons for Climbing >>   Music by Misty Murphy SAVE on  La Sportiva shoes here >> Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Copyright 2024 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.