The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

• TBP 286 :: Correlation Between Finger Strength-to-Weight Ratio and Climbing Performance with Tyler Nelson

  I asked Dr. Tyler Nelson to come back on the show to talk about some new research about finger strength-to-weight ratio and climbing performance. In other words, how much does all that finger training really affect how hard you climb? He goes over some studies done on the topic and we talk about the point at which people see diminishing returns and how (if at all) training your fingers contributes, or is correlated, to injuries.

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• TBP 285: Climbing Training Success Story - From 10a to 12a in 3 Months

  I recently asked my audience to tell me about their climbing training success stories so I could present them on the podcast, and I got some good ones! This story from Lea Cleary stood out to me and I think you're going to love it. Lea is a 40-year-old woman from Boston who's been climbing for 15 years. She felt like she'd plateaued due to fear and performance anxiety. While she'd tried our Performance Route Training Program and made strength gains, she still felt very held back by her performance anxiety.  Then she started working with Coach Alex Stiger and while they continued working on her strength training and climbing technique, they really worked on the mental aspects of climbing. When she started working with Alex, the hardest sport climb she'd sent outside was one 5.10a, and after about 3 months of work together, she surprised herself by sending a 5.12a ("Fear and Loathing" in Red Rocks) in just 4 tries!  Since then she's been regularly sending 5.11's in the gym and feels way less performance anxiety and fear while climbing. She's able to regularly get herself into a flow state while climbing and just enjoy the process instead of being all revved up about performing well.  In this episode, we talk about what she and Alex did together to help her change her mindset, some tools they used, how she stays in the moment while climbing, and what helped her most with performance anxiety.  I hope this episode gives you some motivation and confidence that you, too, can overcome plateaus in your climbing with a little intentional work! 

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• TBP 284: Overcoming Mindset Hurdles in Projecting with Sport Psychologist Madeleine Crane

  Madeleine Crane is a Sport Psychologist from Austria who runs www.climbingpsychology.com. In this episode we discussed the mental and emotional struggles that many people encounter while projecting climbs. Hopefully this discussion will help you bring awareness to your own mental experience and give you some tools to deal with fear of failure, negative comparison to others, and knowing when to call it quits on a project. Madeleine is offering a 30% discount on her mental skills training programs at unblocd.com using the code “trainingbeta” at checkout.

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• TBP 283: Using Mindfulness to Overcome Fear and Anxiety in Climbing - Alex Bridgewater

  Alex Bridgewater is a Sport Psychologist who works with climbers and other athletes to help them be the best person they can be. That work carries over into their sport to make them perform well and have a great time doing it. He uses mindfulness, acceptance, and commitment theory as part of his practice, and in this episode we dive into what that means. Alex is also a climbing coach at ClimbStrong.com and has been for about 7 years. He recently finished his Master’s degree in Sport and Performance Psychology and now has a consulting business at www.InnerSourcePerformancePsychology.com, where you can work with him from anywhere in the world. What We Talked About How values play into climbing performance & training How to incoproate joy and play into climbing Mindfulness, acceptance, and commitment theory Mindfulness in injuries Mindfulness with fear in climbing Mindfulness exercises Who could use a sport psychologist Need Help with Your Climbing Training? TrainingBeta was started in 2012 to provide people with all kinds of resources about training for climbing. We offer expert advice on how to get stronger, braver, and more skillful in your climbing with these offerings: climbing coaching training programs online nutrition coaching mindset coaching for climbers injury rehab programs blog posts podcast episodes  We are here to help you with your climbing training needs! You can always email us at [email protected] if you have any questions about what program or service is right for you. All Training Options

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• TBP 282: How Steve Bechtel’s Training Philosophies Have Changed in the Last Decade

  Steve Bechtel is one of the OG big daddies of climbing training. He founded and runs climbstrong.com where he has 19 coaches helping climbers all over the world get better at their sport. He’s written countless books, a ton of online climbing training programs for climbstrong, he’s hosted training seminars around the US (that I had the pleasure of teaching at), and is an accomplished 5.14 climber himself. He was my 7th guest on the TrainingBeta Podcast back in 2014, and I’ve had him on many more times after that (see below for the list). We decided it would be fun to catch up on how things have changed in the climbing world and how his philosophies have evolved in the decade since we started collaborating. What We Talked About His growing understanding of how your training “age” affects your programming Assessment use now vs before More focus on how mental/emotional aspects affect climbing performance How our waning attention spans affect our climbing and training 6 Things that go into building a training plan What’s changed in his own climbing and training New appreciation for using aerobic endurance training instead of power endurance Where training is going in the next 10 years Previous Podcast Interviews with Steve TBP 007: Training, Finger Strength, Power Endurance, Weight Loss, and Running TBP 036: Periodization and Finger Training Confusion, Psychology of Change TBP 080: How to Design a Training Program for Yourself TBP 110: Training Endurance for Climbing TBP 147: Steve Bechtel, Kris Hampton, and Tom Randall on Best Practices for Training at Home

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